There are many glorious science-based terms when it comes to surfing. We all talk about swells, of course, the underwater energy that creates a breaking wave. But we'll look at swell angles and ...

DR. SMITH ROSE, in his letter on this subject in NATURE of September 19, has directed attention to the striking discrepancy between theory and experience in the matter of coastal refraction of ...

The objective of the paper is to understand the wave refraction pattern and littoral sediment transport along the SE coast of India. There are areas of erosion and accretion observed along the coastal ...

Sally Warner, is an assistant professor of climate science at Brandeis. This article is republished from The Conversation. On Feb. 11, 2020, Brazilian Maya Gabeira surfed a wave off the coast of ...